9c1 package parts list

Good evening everyone,
New here, but been coming here for info for awhile now. I own a 1988 Chevrolet Caprice Classic Wagon, and its cherry. 90k miles, and only 30k on the replacement OE crate 307 in it. Oh, I got if for a steal at $1750 btw lol!!! Anyways, Im not a mechanic, but I do work for a GMC car dealership, in the parts department. So, finding parts (at discount!) is not an issue necessarily. What IS the issue is finding OE performance upgrade parts for this giant beast.
What Im trying to do is mix 9c1 package parts, with 1996 Impala SS parts, and a few WS6 bits to make up a bulletproof suspension and drivetrain. The Impala parts are easy to find PNs for, but the 9c1 not so much. Does ANYONE know where I can find a complete list of parts, PNs included, that made up the 9c1 package? Even better, has anyone here done this themselves?
Btw, the 307 WILL eventually be replaced. Im thinking of a ZZ454HO and a 460 or 480 transmission. Is a 1ton truck 10 bolt beefier than a 96 Impala 10 bolt rear end? And, does anyone know how to fit a rear sway bar, OE, into a wagon that was never made with a rear sway bar? As far as I know, the wagon rear end is like, 4" wider than a sedan or coupe. So, no sway bars for anything else will work...
Any and all help is appreciated guys! Thanks in advance!

hello
jeff here
i have a 1983 oldsmobile 98 regency brougham
" 9 C 1 "   conversion
i can help you...
i can offer you the info you want and i can offer you some options
that retain the oem
and incorporate    9C1  components
cadillac armored body    hearse  and coachbuilder options
and again retaining oem and a sleeper type of style   you know it's there...
hope to hear from you

Im all ears. I tried getting info from the Impala SS forum guys, but honestly...alot of those guys are rude d*!ks! I have a pretty suspension parts list, I think anyways. Missing busings, both body and suspension/steering. Mainly just because I havent put too much time into searching for those yet. One thing I need to find BADLY is new weatherstripping for my windows! The doors are still decent, but the window ones have all started to crack and let water into the doors. I have no real rust, and Id like to keep it that way. First on this car will be the weatherstipping, then the suspension. Then engine/tranny combo. I basically want to build a 1A2 wagon clone, but with the best, most heavy-duty parts offered by GM from 77-96. The motor and tranny I want to use would still have to incorporate all of the extra 9c1 coolers, and the high output alternator, and the green hoses. So, Im leaning towards a built 383 stroker. BUT...everyone and their mother has a 383. Im in love with the LT376 GM just released...but at 15k its a pipedream to say the least lol. Do you prefer to communicate via email, or on here? Just let me know, looking forward to hearing back from you, and thanks a TON in advance!

hi
ninga555@aol.com
looking forward to helping you on this..

This one of the total package w/3 year warrantee. Their out of Tennessee.

There's even short blocks as well if you have other parts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-TURN-KEY-SBC-434-STAGE-5-5-DART-BLOCK-AFR-HEADS-CRATE-MOTOR-632-hp-/351630281798?hash=item51decc4c46:g:VVoAAOSwa-dWlzwN&vxp=mtr

There are 4 stages you can get this in. Most likely 3 or 4 would be your choice.

Primarily for a heavier car. Plus it bolts right in.

Less than the other GM engine.

No where near ready for a motor/tranny swap yet. Suspension 1st, body 2nd, interior 3rd, motor n tranny last. Why? Because, the motor and tranny have ZERO issues....Well....besides that pesky transmission slipping out of Overdrive at cruising speeds. Why havent I asked this already?! HOW DO I FIX THAT?! I mean, I just drive it in D instead of OD, but Id love to be able to use OD ya know.

It could be a couple of things.

4T60 or 4T65.

1.  Solenoid getting tired.
2.  O.D. clutches worn down to little material left.
3.  Plugged filter and or valve sticking in valve body.

Try to smell the fluid to see if it smells burnt!

If so, a rebuild is in order.  Seals are too hard to close the piston/clutches.
Temporary try is pour in 4 ounces of DOT 3 brake fluid in the trans. filler tuber.
Drive it for an hour in third, then try OD. and see if that helps any.
It won't hurt a thing.  May help.  But a cheap fix for awhile.
It may take a couple of days before the seals soften enough.

Good luck!

2004r...Ive heard tale that it is most likely the solenoid. But, Ive also been told it will need rebuilt. Your suggestion to put brake fluid in it, why? Because its thicker or thinner? Would a quart of Lucas tranny fluid maybe help?

Anyone ever saying that 8.5 10 bolts are weak probably dragged an older 8.5. To break a properly built 8.5

you'd be in the neighborhood of at least 750+hp and then dragging it with slicks. Many out there do drag race

8.5s with a 1000+hp.If you plan to drag a motor like that then get something like a Strange rear but on the street

an 8.5 with aftermarket axles and say a Detroit Tru-Trac it's plenty. You can even upgrade an 8.5 to a 8.625

fairly easily .

The brake fluid is an old trick to save a tranny.

My college automotive instructor informed us that in 1976.

Especially with a Ford product then. The fluid is harsh and seals get brittle if overheated or old.

The brake fluid is thin by comparison to trans fluid.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.