383 short block

I just ordered a 383 short block with dished pistons.

I specified the dish because of the 58cc heads I will be using.

Along with a Comp 262-H camshaft (flat tappet).

Edelbrock #2701 intake and an Edelbrock 600cfm.

I have two different sets of headers to try. One is a shorty version.

This spring a new 2 1/2 inch dual exhaust.

It should pull my Caprice right along with the 3.73 gears.

I am still at odds about a 700R4 or stay with my turbo 350. I can build the 350.

Then adding all the other items for suspension.

Overdrives like the 700r4 or 2004r they are great for street cars. However

if you are going to drag though better make sure they are Heavy Duty versions

neither of the above will handle more than 450hp close to stock. (I'd say more like 400hp

if you have a heavy foot) GM says the 4l65e handles the same 450hp of course

with that you need a $500 box to control it, for that the 4l80e(550hp) (Or 4l85e)

is better but those are money too. I think the 4l80es converters start at $400 !

I can get a 700R4 built(HD) for about $1000.00 locally.

I can build the 350 turbo (HD) for about 500 w/convertor (2200-2400 stall)

I do like the idea of the overdrive though.

I guess I have to talk to the guy who builds the 700R4's.

I want one that's tough for occasional running through the gears.

My estimation on the 383 is around 350-360 hp. Maybe a little more.

It will be a 5500 rpm engine only.

Well wouldn't you know it. I get the short block shipped.

I open the packing, mount on a stand.

I start looking at the pistons. They don't come up to the deck.

Quick check with a Vernier, .165 deep. Plus the pistons have been machined on top??

I contact the builder with pictures and 7 of 8 have sbc 400 rods in the 350 block,

He says later, he talked to his helper, made a mistake. NO KIDDING!

And why was there a machining of the pistons? To make all the pistons weigh the same!?!?!?!?

States they had to fly cut them??? Why would you alter the tops?

He contacted me again, new rods & pistons ordered. And he will assemble and ship asap.

I don't know if that can be trusted. If they don't look right, their not going in.

This is supposed to be a machine shop that specializes in crank, rods and pistons.

I never heard of removing metal from pistons other than to balance an assembly, that seems strange cutting them like that.

Sounds like he didn't realize he had wrong parts in it and was trying to compensate for it in the wrong way.

I only hope when the parts get here that their not "FLY CUT"!  

Otherwise I will spend an extra $500 and get new pistons and rods myself.

They will be bushed for ease of assembly.  

Oh gosh, well its a good thing you looked and checked it, like you would think if someone (you) were ordering a short block you know with no heads on, perhaps you would know a thing or two about what youre looking at and then they try to cover up a mistake it seems, as if it were going to get passed you. I work with cnc routers and the only thing we fly cut are 5x8 sheets of mdf, not the piston crowns! Shoot by them doing that, that will alter the air flow in the chamber probably against what the piston was designed for, and who knows how much material they took off!
Keep us posted!

By cutting the top of the piston, you increase the volume(cc/compression) on each piston.

And this is a MACHINE shop? I got to think an inexperienced one at best.

I'll let all know the results.

I received the pistons and rods a couple of days ago.

I took to start and installed #8-#2 pistons in and check clearances on the bearings.

All 8 rod bearings were good.  Varying slightly from .0015 to .00175.

When starting to install rings and all starting with #8, good.  #6 good.  #4 the rod touches the camshaft.  This cam is .477/.480  Comps.

Contacted the machine company, "yes, some clearance needs to be done"!

So after a lot of concerns, I pulled all sets(thank God I didn't have the others in) cleaned them up to be modified.

So what I ended up doing was grinding a small 45 on the outside of the bolt bosses, both sides, on all rods.

These 5.7 rods had a healthy rod bolt sides.  So grinding down flush with the rod bolt angle worked out well.

Upon installing wo/ rings it cleared well. Same w/rings.

The short block is complete w/7 quart pan (special made pickup included) and a Mellings high volume pump.

Timing cover style is for changing cams if need be. Harmonic Balancer is ext. Powerforce #80001 installed.

I started to place the heads, no block dowels. Apparently pulled when rebuilt. Ordered those.

Now I'm thinking of getting the ProMaxx heads from White Performance. These are 64 cc. aluminum. "D" exhaust ports.

Along with roller rockers and Rocker girdle. Another $1000.00 invested. Nothing is cheap in this project.

That's a decision not made lightly. I already have the Corvette 58cc heads.

Time will tell.

Well I have the Corvette heads on and an Edelbrock 2701 intake bolted on w/600 Edelbrock 1405.

Some would not use these heads.  From GM these come on the ZZ4 350 putting out 355 hp. w.10.0 compression w/roller cam.

My engine will be around 10.9 compression with almost as healthy a cam (Comp. XE-242-2)flat tappet.

A new HEI and MSD plug wires.  New aluminum water pump installed.

This should loose about 90-100 lbs. off the frontend.  Some other things will go also.  

No heater hookup either.  Less chances for leaks.  

A set of shorty headers w/2.5 cone attached.  Take to the muffler shop have 2.5 all the way back through 2.5 mufflers.

A lot of spring time work as I am alone doing it.  I do have access to a man with a hoist.  We'll see.

First thing will be to pull the engine/transmission early and blast the inner area to paint and clean up.

I will be rebuilding a turbo 350 soon with a shift kit and Alto clutches, Colene steels, special hardened intermediate outer race.

I'm looking at a 2000-2200 stall convertor with my 3.73 gears.  Still streetable but not crazy.

Its a working project at best!  

Nice man, i know your excited to get it out and running. Speaking of the th350, mine all i put in it was a shift kit and changed all the fluid to dex 6, chirp the tires in 2nd and 3rd! on the stock tranny with 120,000 original miles, im surprised it hasnt.....(better not say anything lol) Ive been running it for about a year now no problems, shift it at 6500rpm making close to 400hp, pretty stout little tranny

Be careful with that 2nd. gear power shift. When that sprag blows its a grenade internally.

Two things that helps those turbo 350's is the heavy duty harden intermediate(2) sprag and the 700R4 low/reverse support roller.

The 700R4 support has a good 50% more holding power for first gear in DRIVE.

So you just want to drop it in D and run it, its a better setup. And it will shift at where ever the governor will let it.

That can be modified also for higher shifts at WOT. But normal when just cruising around town.

Right now I'm about done with assembly. I would like to start on the turbo 350 soon.

If I could find a dyno near me I might give it a try to be sure of everything being broken in.

I have the short block completed.  I built an engine test stand and have about 40 minutes on the cam break-in.  Changed oil and fixing some seeps.  Nothing new.

Can't wait to get it in the car.

Pictures of my engine test stand

The control board w/watch dog/cat.


right side view


front view w/fan and 3 core radiator w/fan


Edelbrock line and filter


shorty headers w/2 1/2 inch mufflers to be attached.

Terry great build you have going. Look forward to seeing it in the car. The engine I have is very similar to yours. My block was clearanced for the rods. I think all stock 350 blocks require it on certain cylinders with a stroker crank. I have never heard of anyone cutting the tops of pistons.

That is a sweet engine test stand you setup.

I know what you mean on 2nd gear in a TH350. Mine shifts from 1st to 3rd. I have a line on another built TH350 from a truck buddy who is doing an LS swap into his 66'. He is going to borrow my engine hoist and make me a deal on the TH350.

When I had mine built the last time the shop I used wouldn't even give me a warranty for it due to the 383 stroker. He did tell me to always put it in 1st gear if I was going to run it through the gears as the sun gear in "D" positions was not very strong.

Not sure if you are aware but Hooker does make long tube headers for our cars.

Bret

I have the engine in along with a HD 700R4.

A shortened driveshaft and the HD cross member that was mentioned on here before.

I have about 650-700 miles on it now.

If I want to crank on it, I go down to direct, then it shifts out of first at about 25 or so.  Then around 55 into third.

It will light them up a ways but hooks well.

With a stock sway bar in the back and a 1.5 inch in the front it handles well.  Like a go cart on curves.

I have a floor shifter with 4 gear selection.  That may be the winter install.

Then I can start in first and shift on my own.

Thanks for the comments on the stand. I added a battery box later on.

Its nice to view all.

On your turbo 350 transmission.  When getting it rebuilt there are two (2) things that are pertinent to longevity.

First a harden second gear sprag race.

Second is getting a 700R4 center support with the wide race.  The race is 50% heavier than stock.

So you can start out in D and nail it.  Some work on the governor is needed also for higher shift points. Fairbanks sells the kit.

Of course having 5 clutches in forward and direct.  All clutches should be Alto and Kolene steels.  A new band also(used as a brake).

Talk to your rebuilder.   Good luck!

Funny thing about the rebuilder of my 383 short block.

I haven't heard a thing.  Just as well.