79 you have seen before

I decoded my block numbers from this crate I bought and it tuns out it was built in Mexico Jan 23 1980.

I did not even think they made the crate motors in 1980. It's a Target Master crate that was offered through

certain retailers. Just some info if you ever see a used GM crate motor it might be older than you think.

It is odd I use to read PHR, Car Craft and Hot Rod,R&T,etc.etc religiously as a teen(1980s) and the first ad for

GM replacement crate that I remember was the very early 90s. It's not a bad thing though if you are looking

for a good block the old Mexican Crates are 4bolt mains , high in Nickel and considered fairly stout. And these

beat out many later year(back to the 80s..) blocks for the aforementioned qualities for a rebuild.


PS Another piece of info I found out is there are people looking for the older 4bbl low compression heads

for their 80s and early 90s TBI motors as they say those TBI heads are worse than anything. I sold

the heads from my motor for a bill to a guy who needed therm for 93 Tahoe interesting...

I figured I'd give an opinion of the SouthSide Machine bars Upper and Lower holding my rearend in place.

Well it's been few months and no bad thoughts here, was it cheap? No, are they worth it? YES! The chassis is

ridiculously solid. If I swing the car around from a dead stop it feels solider than the z28 I was driving before .

No flex in the rear and road undulations and bumps are easily dealt with. I highly recommend them to anyone

seeking a solid rear chassis and they put the 9C1 bars to shame, much better.Ok I will point out that I think

the biggest difference is the Uppers. Can't say for sure as I just swapped 9c1 lowers and factory uppers for

the SouthSide but the 9c1s are decent but the Uppers are a joke compared to the SouthSide bars.

OEM Upper



SouthSide Machine Upper and Lower





I bought the adjustable lowers but you can save $50 or more by just getting the non

adjustables. I will say the bushings are Poly and not for the timid as the ride overall is not as soft as factory

but again much better handling and any kind movement(bumps etc) there is much less drama and more

confidence. So there is a small price to pay but I love them overall.

Thanks for the post
I'm rebuilding the rear end from that 95 impala
And not to happy with the stock arms and seen these on the forum but wondered about quality and fitment
I'll be sure to pick up a set since these are more afforadable and not $400+ like umi and bmr

Myloth wrote:Too Orange or what?



Or even too much Orange lol



Finished



Sort of the rearend seems fine but passenger side rear brake isnt right

Hey myloth what length driveshaft u end up with
U have a sbc 350/w a 200r4 tans (equal to th350 in length) combo correct? W/8.5" rear

Sorry I did not see this post till now. I get from end of each yoke to yoke (hard to get any other measurement at the

moment) 59 1/4" which sounds about what I got before so I believe that's right. Don't ask me what it came from as it was

laying in a pile of about a thousand driveshafts in a yard and I got lucky as I found it in about 3 minutes. I would again

recommend those arms they are great for the money and as you point out more economical than other brands.



BRRRR anybody else getting this deep freeze this week doesn't make for much outdoors accomplishments this week

and next unless you are going to ski.

Mine is 60 1/4" I'm sure ill be able to get away with this shaft don't you think
Thanks again

When u say yoke to yoke is that from tip to tip(or)yoke ear to yoke ear (where the u joint sits)
Also have u slapped in that 200-4r and if yes how did it fit..I'm looking to do that swap next

Sorry for long delayed reply didn't see it. No I still have not put in transmission and it's from where the joint sits.

On another minor note I'd been smelling gas for about a week and could not find the leak, even though I looked everywhere

turns out the rubber hose that connects the hard line from the tank to the pump was leaking only when the pump was on.

I am just glad the smell of gas is gone.

Well now I really have to get on the ball the original 305 started blowing Blue smoke big time. It had the occasional blow-by on a good stomp but now it just pours out even at idle that ring must be shot. And I just installed a new radio an hour ago. Well I knew it was coming just wished it would have lasted till April. The motor
I bought in the fall had same problem though one bad ring must be SBC thing .......

Anyway the Pioneer radio rocks if nothing else I can watch movies in my driveway lol.

Although I am hoping a little Restore might get me back and forth to the Y, I think

highway cruising is out in fact last long drive was down Highway before it smoked.

Risilone to the rescue! I poured a butt load of thick oil and ran it for about 40 miles and the smoking stopped

finally.







Maybe I'll get another 1000 miles or out of her so that would work. Today seemed like good day to get out to

the yard. JACKPOT! I went to local yard and the son showed me around looking for an air cleaner (closed oem

been running open all winter ugh).






Well after finding four bottoms and no top we come up to an old camper. And find this.



he says oh you can have that for 20 but when we bring to the oldman he wants 40 I'm like 20 40 whatever

find one of these for less than 75 on ebay and you are lucky. It's the dual snorkel Corvette\El Camino Air

cleaner.



Definitely a keeper for this car. It needs a good cleaning but that's something I'm pretty good at.

Now if I can just get a good motor I'd be set, there's still talk of a 383 that a friends relative has but we will

see if not I'd better rebuild that Mexican block quick!

I love this Pioneer Touchscreen but need some better fascia for the dash, I was going aluminum but I

screwed up the last piece I had by accident. This model Pioneer avh-p1400dvd isn't bad it's all touch except

a left side pad with arrows.




I also plan to do a deck install of some Morel (Yes!! ty you ebay!) 8" woofer rather

than box it. I found a pair of Morel 220ws on ebay cheap if you don't know what Morel is suffice to say to an

old speaker builder like myself the 220ws are easily one of the best 8" woofers ever made. (Quality over

quantity).

There is a another pair available here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Morel-MW220-MW-220-woofers-mids-midranges-midbasses-3-inch-VC-1-of-2-/321690180708?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae63a9c64

By "deck install" are you referring to the package tray? If yes it's a tight fit but you can put 4 10s up there!
Unless the drivers you're getting are the "Infinite Baffle" type, you'll need to build an enclosure.
If they are infinite baffle type, to get the proper sound you'll need to install some type sound isolation material on the package tray and the back of the rear seat to keep the bass notes from canceling each other out.  Dynomat works great on the tray but won't stick well to the back of the seat.  You'll have to build a partition first then Dynomat it.  5/8ths HDPB works great.  Don't forget to silicone seal the edges to prevent air leakage.

Nice head unit, btw! It's a shame that you trashed the bezel though.....

I had some mtx 6"*9" and they bumped hard clear sound solid bass notes some guys thought i had some 10" subs in there i had it infinite baffle set up and used the trunk as a box
I ended up taking out the blower motor out pf the rear deck because it would rattle the f*** on the shaft where it spins 
The speakers(MTX TN-693) lasted more than a year abused on a sony deck 
Then to a 1400w"claimed" 4 ch autotek amp and it still bumped harder, i ended up droping on of the speakers when moving things to make a rear deck tray the tweeter broke and i still got the other one.
I was thinking of getting a new set and make a lil box in the front under the stereo to hold the single 6*9 and some new 6*9 in the back Currently i got 2* 6.5" under the stereo

If i were you id use the cardboard of the rear deck as a stencil on some wood or mdf, your gonna end up trimming the edges cause the cardboard will bend when installing but wood not so much, you can buy some mdf 6*9 spacers and screwl/bond them to the deck ,about 4 bolts with washers to hold it down tight  and grab roofing l/flashing tape from home depot does the same job a dynomat cover the opening in the metal behind the rear seat and between the rear deck metal and the board

Actually I was going to make some Fiberglass pods  below the speakers. Yes there is plenty of room I had a

pair 8s in my 99' SHO rear deck that sounded great in an infinite baffle but those were high Qts and liked it.

These Morel need some kind of enclosure hence the fiberglass to make it nice and neat.  I have donw few pods

before but this will be a challenge I think

The plastic cracked  on that bezel last summer just taking the radio out I trimmed it, that's why I need a new

fascia for it sucks.

Yeah have been into DIY Audio too long, here is my shed build from the fall, they are Pro Audio 3 way I built

from the MCM catalog mainly because neighbors don't like too much bass so the 8s are just right and the 12s

had to go......



The 8s in these are right here

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/MCM-AUDIO-SELECT-55-2950-/55-2950

great product for the money been using these for close to 6 months and they are great.

I am just not a fan of the big trunk box. I had HUGE box had 3 10s in Buick in 90s and man I could scare

people at stop light but no room for anything else. I built box for the trunk of this car put it in ,then cut in half

put it in, then gave it to my neighbor to burn because I just don't want a trunk box.

Here are some snaps I thought might be a good reminder of being thorough.

Here are pics of the radiator \ Evaporator removed and the front brace







You'll notice how the brace looks well the other side after some light brushing here's how it looked




and the bottom



THE SOLUTION



I love this stuff works great





Better I hope




I am in the process today of sanding and painting hoping to have new parts

(New hose, transmission cooler & hose, electric fan kit)



Triple Core 2.25" 22x19 all aluminum radiator



in tomorrow or Friday. I also plan to use a late model Jeep shroud for the electric fan it's a better

fit . Here's a good tip blow out your alternator every 6mos at least I just blew out a wad of hairy

black gunk out of mine.

Sweet this my only complaint of any note since I purchased the Impala you or someone else put the

distributor back in the wrong spot. I changed wires and when I fired it BACKFIRE! I moved the wires to the next

spot and all is well someone didn't check the TDC when they reinstalled the distributor. No big deal though I am

rebuilding one now so when it goes in I will fix the orientation properly.

Myloth wrote:Sweet this my only complaint of any  note since I purchased the Impala you or someone else put the

distributor back in the wrong spot. I changed wires and when I fired it BACKFIRE! I moved the wires to the next

spot and all is well someone didn't check the TDC when they reinstalled the distributor. No big deal though I am

rebuilding one now so when it goes in I will fix the orientation properly.

I have no control of what happens to a car after I sell it. If I did, I'd have stopped you from doing a bunch of the stuff you did to it. jk, jk.

Hmmm, if if ran good before you changed the spark plug wires, and the problem didn't show up until after you changed the wires, yet when you move the wires to different terminals the problem went away... sounds to me like you initially installed the wires on the wrong terminals.

I am not complaining, just pointing out that somebody pulled the distributor and reinstalled incorrectly the

rotor is off one terminal.Yes it ran fine before so I am not annoyed or anything just stating fact that's actually

very odd first time that has ever happened, to me anyway . I didn't move the distributor though when I went to

put wires on it puked out of the carb because the factory firing order would not work. As far as what I have done

not sure what you mean there.  I am not nor have I ever been a restoration person I am a stone cold Hot Rodder

I live to mod I can't help that. I love the car and have no regrets  about owning or buying it.  Actually now that

I adjusted the valves it runs much better then it ever did a few were loose, I think I found 10-15hp hiding in

there lol. I am not the type of person to complain about something after the fact so if you took it that way

I am sorry for that.

Nah, no offense taken. I'm just more of a purest. I like to keep them fairly close to stock with only subtle mods. Things that make a a Bbody enthusiast go Huh? and take a 2nd look.

I cringe at some of the stuff I see people doing to them. Somewhere on here there's a pic of a person using a 2x4 jammed into the rear springs to raise the back end of the car. EEEK! I think the worst thing I ever saw was a BEAUTIFUL 78 Caprice Landau body on a 4wd chassis. What were they thinking?!?! Lol

Im a purest too. all the mods im doing to my car are not (i cant find the word im looking for) structural should i say, idk, but all the mods im doing, i can easily go back to stock and orignal, i kept the original 350, and one day ill rebuild it to stock specs, just because i can

Also on all the new radiators sold today that are not performance radiators are all aluminum and plastic and they all leak, which is what sucks. And the aluminum is soo soft, ive warrantied so many radiators its pretty bad. So all i can say is good luck with it!!

While I owned the Impala, I saved all the parts I changed too. Heck, I still have the original radiator for it. It has a tiny pin hole near the top hose that could easily be soldered but I purchased a new one anyway. I offered it when I sold the car but the buyer didn't want it. It's free to anyone who does want it. (to use, that is. not for scrap)

I agree on the radiators I'd rather have dual or triple core Brass and copper any day they used to make some

really good aftermarket ones now it's all aluminum (and cheap aluminum at that right.)

Funny you say about the 4x4 there's a person around the block who has a 71'(I think) Cutlass on a 4x4 frame

lol(yuck). I understand the originality though that you'd want to keep. I myself will never part with the chrome

bumpers and won't modify the body in any weird way(Not a fan of chopped cars).

There is no tags but I'd swear it's an early 70s Cutlass. It's a hideous combo anyway nice body though.

Bought a hard carb line (MR Gasket cheap but leak free) and few extras new hoses.










Those are the silicone blue  I used regular Worm clamps (nooooo) but I lined them myself so no harm befalls

them. You will also notice the lack of a Power Steering pump. This has been a bit of a bug hunt for few

weeks. The original started leaking from the pump a friend gave me the older style one (that leaked even after

a rebuild NOOOOOOO). So Monday I am going to either the yard or NAPA(Reman) which would you choose?

It seem many including myself have had very bad experiences with Cardone reman PS pumps I'm on the

fence there is a few new GM pumps lurking around for 100 dollar bill though but it's a tad pricey for me

at the moment. It all looks so pretty but my earlier call was right the 305 is spent smokes a storm and

I can't get rid of a shudder on load. It stinks not to drive but hopefully before the end of the month it will

be gone and a fresher 350 in it's place.