79 you have seen before

Oh there's no question about it, square tubing is much more rigid. Back in the days before all the aftermarket ones were being made, we used to weld 3/16" steel plates to the bottoms of stock ones to box them, but the rest of it was still stamped steel. The square tubing ones are light years better.

Be reeeeeal careful with the adjustable upper arms. When using them with standard length lowers, for every day driving it's best to leave them at the standard length too. When you start changing their length it rotates the rear end and changes the pinion angle. You really don't want to do that unless you enjoy changing u-joints all the time and every so often, the whole rear when the center housing cracks around the pinion shaft. You probably won't notice the cracks in the housing until under a full power up-shift, when it shatters. (giggles) yeah, been there, done that. Lots of pretty sparks. Hey, back then we didn't have anybody with experience to learn from.

Before you swap out the engines, wouldn't it be cool to take out the 305 in a blaze of glory? I used up a whole tank of n2o through a plate system with 150hp jets and it still runs. I wonder if it would take a 400hp shot?

Lol I might be tempted . When I was still in HS my friend had to take a running 72 Chevy Wagon (400 I think) to the

wreckers we opened the jets and turned the distributor advancing the timing about 50 degrees lol. The whole way

there it shot blue flames and backfired like double barrel.

I was going to match it the factory and then go from there. Mack at SOuthSide even said to me that these adjustments

are very subtle better a 1/4 turn then a 1/2 turn etc . He also said that many people do what you are saying put too much

angle the driveshaft\axle and cause big problems and because of the longish wheelbase 1 turn on the arm is huge as you

move toward the front. Unless I have that problem with too much angle I will leave it to factory specs.

Rainging today bleh.

I have trunkful of parts waiting to be installed I will take some pics of the front end install tomorrow. Damn forgot how heavy a

sizable sway bar is they sent me Zinc coated even though it says powder or zinc coated no choice though. hoping to get this

done in a day  but we'll see the biggest problem is getting the steering align it's barely aligned now so I guess I'll clone the ends

and center link and install as a unit and go from there.(Hmm is there enough room?).


                                                        On another note the RustOleum Fabric and Vinyl spray color it

works on Vinyl but the finish is questionable at best.(faded spots) and for fabric I think you would need about 8 cans to do a back

seat that was fabric. As the farbic just absorbs the spray and absorbs to get a good color would be a challenge. Even on Vinyl

you need a lot I needed a whole can to get an ok (I use the word ok loosely)finish on a billiards cue case. Verdict thumbs down

try a different brand.

I've got a set of Xenon HIDs 2 years ago and haven't used the brights since. I paid 50 bucks on ebay. Summit also makes a high beam conversion kit so if you have HID high and low you tie this in and all four lights stay on in highbeam mode. That would be like day light son. awesome

Myloth wrote:they sent me Zinc coated

That's a good thing! That means you got the Pontiac bar which is better than the Chevy one. I don't remember why, but it just is.

It would be cool if you do a new thread with a write-up with lots of details and pics.

Yeah I can do that I have 2 extra pair hands on this one. So I will take some nice pics as it progresses tomorrow and

write some details. The bar seems like some pretty solid stuff I replaced a 28mm bar with a 33mm on a later Impala and

that bar was lighter in comparison ( didn't seem hollow) and nowhere near as stiff as this one.

Myloth wrote:

                                                        On another note the RustOleum Fabric and Vinyl spray color it

works on Vinyl but the finish is questionable at best.(faded spots) and for fabric I think you would need about 8 cans to do a back

seat that was fabric. As the farbic just absorbs the spray and absorbs to get a good color would be a challenge. Even on Vinyl

you need a lot I needed a whole can to get an ok (I use the word ok loosely)finish on a billiards cue case. Verdict thumbs down

try a different brand.

Have you tried SEM paints?  That's all I use on car interiors and I've used SEM products for over 10 years.  With the right prep, it will not come off and works wonders on vinyl and plastics.  There are literally hundreds of different colors to choose from.  I usually don't recommend painting carpets or fabrics as it just never really turns out right, especially seats.  However, a headliner will turn out pretty good because of the foam backing and the board behind that.  If you do lots and lots of light coats letting each one dry between, you can color change a headliner, but I've never seen anyone have good luck doing this with carpets or seat fabrics.  Oh, and take the headliner out of the car first!  

For seat fabrics, if they are in good condition you could dye them with actual fabric dye such as RIT, but you need to remove the seat fabric from the seats to do it properly.  As for carpets?  New carpet is dirt cheap for these cars if you want a different color or the same color.

I looked for YEARS for the proper light blue for that interior!  The closest SEM has is Wedgewood Blue, and it's way too dark.  But yeah, Solo's right, SEM products are great.  The arm rests were sprayed with a color I had custom mixed at AutoBody Supply in Albany.  
A few years back a friend was in touch with Dixie Monte Carlo.  She was trying to have them produce the correct light blue plastic paint for us.  It may be worth a call to them to see if they're producing it or not.  IIRC, SEM makes all their custom colors but they're sold under the DMC name.

I will have to check out SEM then I have not used it but avoid RustOleum at all costs!



Here is a pics of the sway bar not bad.

Seeing that sway bar put a big grin on my face! You're gonna be SO happy you bought it.
What are you doing for springs? If re-using the stock ones, spring clamps are an inexpensive way to lower the car without cutting anything.
Do you plan on setting a base line before starting any changes? Maybe hit your favorite corner(s) and record the speeds to compare them to speeds after the changes?

Actually I was looking at these

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-80090

They are a caprice Wagon Spring that is popular with not only Caprices and Impalas but

even with Crown Vics.

Apparently they are close to stock height but prevent bottoming out and offer nice but firm ride.

They have a very high spring rate but from what I read these work well

anybody ever try them?

I've never used them myself.  RockAuto has 'em for like $66pr.
Are they taller or shorter than the stock ones?  For best handling, a lower center of gravity is always better. If you look at all the performance springs out there for Bbodies, they're all shorter.

Something to consider before making a spring purchase. Did you know that when using stiff sway bars you can use a softer spring than what most people think? The bars are meant to control body roll, and not so much for suspension control. Going with a front spring with too high of a rate matched with the stock progressive rate rear springs just might ruin your handling. Just like with engines, suspension parts have to compliment each other. Study anything you can find about Herb Adams and you'll understand why I'm cautioning you about the spring choice.

I know what you mean but I am not looking for too low just a bit stiffer in the front is all I need the back grabs well now

it's the front that felt pretty sloppy. of course the bad balljoints and worn bushings certainly contributed to that slop.

Myloth wrote: I know what you mean but I am not looking for too low just a bit stiffer in  the front is all I need the back grabs well now

it's the front that felt pretty sloppy. of course the bad balljoints and worn bushings certainly contributed to that slop.

Have you ever considered air ride? That's what I'm doing. It's not just for lowriders anymore. Ride Tech has some 100% bolt-on kits with no welding or cutting and the front bags are donut shaped with special shocks in the center that use your factory shock mounts. The bags simply replace the stock coils. The ride quality is better than factory and it really stiffens up the front and you can ride at whatever height you want. You can run whatever shocks you want in the back also. That's the route I'm going along with a similar front stabilizer bar as yours, adjustable control arms and boxed trailing arms in the rear. You can also get some pretty sweet front upper and lower tubular control arms which I might do. I'm also adding the Fleetwood steering stabilizer and a load of other goodies all with a reinforced frame.

Ride Tech only shows 91-96 Impala, but it will work on any 77-96 B-body. I guess they figure no one is interested in putting their system on a '79 Caprice.haha

I have used air shocks and air spring in vehicles in the past but they were somewhat of a compromise. I know what

you are talking about is the newer air bag suspension systems . They look great but I am budgeting and I maxed the

suspension budget at this point. Maybe in the future but right now it should be pretty good for what I want out of it.

Same for the front arms at 1k set its more than I will spend. There was a guy in Mass he listed a set 500 but they were

custom and had no setup for a sway bar. So you would have to spend 300 on a circle track style torsion bar and that

brought it too close to 1k again. I don't knock any of it but I have to keep my feet on the ground while reaching for the

stars.

I ordered these they are the same ones people like in the Crown Vics as well as the B bodies in fact it's originally a GM

spring.

http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-80098

$77 shipped from Summit (of course I had to spend 23 dollars on ludicrous items to get that free shipping)

The only flaw with Car Part is part vendor doesn't always list the specifics.I have been looking at rearend in Car part for awhile

that was 20 miles from me says 11" brakes ABS that's all turns out it's a 8.5 POSI for 200 dollars. Already bought and

paid for lol and I haven't even picked it up yet!

Myloth wrote:The only flaw with Car Part is part vendor doesn't always list the specifics.I have been looking at rearend in Car part for awhile

that was 20 miles from me says 11" brakes ABS that's all turns out it's a 8.5 POSI for 200 dollars. Already bought and

paid for lol and I haven't even picked it up yet!

You're not using your resources properly I could have saved you at least $50. I have access to 6 or 7 posi rears including one with 3.42 gears (the one that almost made it into your car) for only $150 each. $50 is new axle bearings, a cover gasket, new fluid....

I assume you're pulling the axles and installing new bearings? Now's the time do a disk brake conversion while the axles are out! Parts from late 70s Trans Ams, Caddy Sevilles, and Buick Riveras, and '97 to '04 Blazers/Jimmys all bolt right on. Blazers would be the most common and easiest to find, not to mention the least expensive and easiest E-brake hook up. I bet ya $100 would get you everything. LOL! See? That $50 I coulda saved you would have had you half way there!

Be careful, Car Part is far from reliable. It's basically 50% outdated listings, 45% garbage, 4% won't ship, and 1% decent parts. They seem to be OK for big parts like rear ends and bumpers and seats, but a word of caution, don't buy anything from vendors listed there without getting pics first. I used to recommend the site to people, but then I started hearing a lot of complaints about shady sellers and parts that don't live up to their description so I don't do it anymore. Even I got taken by a vendor listed there. I tell people ebay now. Lol, at least you get SOME type of protection there.

Sweet Seventy9 wrote:
Be careful, Car Part is far from reliable.  It's basically 50% outdated listings, 45% garbage, 4% won't ship, and 1% decent parts.  They seem to be OK for big parts like rear ends and bumpers and seats, but a word of caution, don't buy anything from vendors listed there without getting pics first.  I used to recommend the site to people, but then I started hearing a lot of complaints about shady sellers and parts that don't live up to their description so I don't do it anymore.  Even I got taken by a vendor listed there.  I tell people ebay now.  Lol, at least you get SOME type of protection there.

Truth^^

I would buy something off Craigslist from a guy who lives way out in the woods 20 miles from civilization before I'd buy anything from Car Part.  I usually stick to Ebay and Craigslist myself or an occasional private transaction from a person on a forum and have had a 98% track record in getting what I paid for.

I hear you the rearend is a low mileage Posi with they say 3.08s just has 11" drums out of a Roadmaster.

The seller is gold no question I have done business with them for years without issue.

Actually what I plan to do is clean it up changefluid and install. Then in the spring I will install new axles & brakes

I had a line on a 9" ford that fell through then a 12 bolt that the seller changed his mind. The 50 I could care

less I just want the rearend here and now. But I do appreciate the information I don't mean to sound

inconsiderate.

As far as Car Part I agree it's just a tool and a sketchy one at that and no I wouldn't buy anything based

on Car Part's listing that's for sure . All I meant is what you are saying it's listings are spurious at best.


Here's some of what's came out this week.

Here is the rear looks good 80k on it and I know they weren't BSing me about it. I heard them talking about the Roadmaster

they pulled it from and they were putting the LT1 and Trans out of it into a vintage Ford for themselves!




I think they forgot to put one bolt back when they drained it.

Myloth wrote:Here is the rear looks good 80k on it and I know they weren't BSing me about it. I heard them talking about the Roadmaster

they pulled it from and they were putting the LT1 and Trans out of it into a vintage Ford for themselves!




I think they forgot to put one bolt back when they drained it.

Did that come from a RM sedan or wagon?

Sedan I checked the width it's almost the same as the 7.5 in the Imp now wagon they say is several inches wider.

Finally did a seat upgrade it was either a swap or reupholstering I swapped in some leather.





I have a leatherette cover that's a close match to the front for the rear seat maybe tomorrow I'm beat.

IIRC the rears are the same width, but on wagons the control arms are at a different angle than 2 doors and sedans.  Either way, they don't fit.

Here's a cheap engine and trans.  LO5 350, 700R4 (or 4L60e?).  $100 OBO !!!
http://badass-of-ne.forumotion.com/t6066-engine-and-trans-for-sale-cheap#78129
I know Brian through the forum.  If he says they're OK, they are.  
I don't think you'll find a better deal than that anywhere.

Just think...... Set the TBI aside for now and put carb on it.  Swap a mild cam into it.  I have the correct drive shaft and a 2200rpm torque converter here already.  BAM!! you're all set!  

That is a good deal not for me though.. But somebody should grab it he's selling the whole car for cheap!

Found a motor this morning wrapped in plastic in my yard, Santa came early?



But then I looked on the side of my house and seen a 2004r and I knew I forgot that trip to

the yard yesterday.



Package deal 350 Goodwrench and 2004r for one money from local yard.

They need cleaning but price was cheap (400ish) and delivered to my door. The 2004r is from a late 80s

Monte Carlo it's had some work to it the guy used to race it. And the 350 is solid fired up first turn with

nothing but gas and it had an old quadrajet on it that doesn't look to fresh. Same for plugs etc

poor maintenance but low miles Crate motor for cheap I'll take it. So far looks good inside the lifter valley

and heads are clean. I have to replace all accessories but that was a must do anyway for decent look.

PS

I think Gm's weight thrown round of 575 for a 350 is with fluids and everything. I stripped it to the long block and

I can pick up one side rather easily no way that's over 300. maybe 310  maybe. I am figuring all this as I don't have lift

handy but do have an engine stand debating whether to take off the heads may have to.