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I found replacement window channel rubber and outer window sweeps on ebay.
The window channel runs were not cheap, and I see the price has gone up since. I paid 232.47 shipped and they now list for 324.30 shipped. Sold by collectors auto supply. They are described as made in the U.S.A. and are very well made.
On to installation. There is a right side and left side placement, though I found no markings to indicate which was which. If you look closely at the leg of the strip that runs down the post, the inside is thicker. I managed to install them backwards at first, thinking they were identical. Glad I didnt use glue.
Next detail to make a note of is that these (or atleast the set I received) are designed for the 1980 and up models. Another post on this board made a note of this as well. '77-'79 uses the rubber as the guide for the window inside the door, while '80 and up use a plastic guide attached to the glass as a guide. These window channel runs do not come long enough to reach down into the door in the front to serve as a guide on my '77 two door. Prior to ordering, I contacted the supplier to see if they could spare the extra few inches of material to achieve perfection, but never heard back. Maybe thats why they want another $100.00, but I wouldn't bet on it.
What I used to make up the extra length was a peice of "universal fit" window channel run I had initialy purchased because it was cheaper. I should have bought the better ones first. I could have easily found something to make up the extra section needed. Oddball strips of old weatherstrip, peice of carpet, old seatbelt material... I dont know.
The job itself was easy enough. Iremoved the inner door panel, outer window sweep and removed the window stop at the bottom of the door. I picked out the old cracked sections, vacuumed out the 40 years worth of crap in the door. I opened up the drain holes at the bottom of the door with a step drill so they drain freely, slathered por-15 around as best as i could. The window channel runs slid into place easily enough with mild soapy water in a spray bottle. I worked the back section into the door by rolling the window up very carefully a few inches, then rolling the window down while simultaneously feeding the rubber strip down with it. I didnt use any adhesive and dont feel I am going to need to. Be very careful while moving the window up or down so you dont chip the glass, and use extreme caution if you decide to close the door-dont slam it. Any time i had to go get something or walk away, I shoved rags and cardboard between the door and glass to prevent potential disaster.
Next was the outer window sweeps. I found these on ebay, but unfortunately I cannot retreive the details or seller information, other than that they cost me $139.00. They incorporate the felt anti rattle/guide strip. The contour is perfect and the screw holes lined up perfectly, except for the front two. Im not sure where they were made, but they are well made. Remember to carefully roll the window up to clean the gunk at the bottom of the glass. Mine was filthy with no way to clean it with the outer sweep still attached -drove me nuts.
The screw holes in the door were a bit blown out and I couldn't find stainless screws that fit to my liking. So i drilled out the holes in the door slightly and used aluminum pop rivets after I por-15 the fresh metal. I also used por15 on the edges of the chrome and where the felt is mounted because i noticed a slight tinge of rust after install.
Check everything out, Roll the glass up half way, install the lower window stop, vacuum any crap that fell in the door, lube the mechanism, hang the door panel and put it back together. No more wind noise, rattling glass, or gunk line below the outer window sweep. Window goes up and down like new.
I hope this was helpful.
The window channel runs were not cheap, and I see the price has gone up since. I paid 232.47 shipped and they now list for 324.30 shipped. Sold by collectors auto supply. They are described as made in the U.S.A. and are very well made.
On to installation. There is a right side and left side placement, though I found no markings to indicate which was which. If you look closely at the leg of the strip that runs down the post, the inside is thicker. I managed to install them backwards at first, thinking they were identical. Glad I didnt use glue.
Next detail to make a note of is that these (or atleast the set I received) are designed for the 1980 and up models. Another post on this board made a note of this as well. '77-'79 uses the rubber as the guide for the window inside the door, while '80 and up use a plastic guide attached to the glass as a guide. These window channel runs do not come long enough to reach down into the door in the front to serve as a guide on my '77 two door. Prior to ordering, I contacted the supplier to see if they could spare the extra few inches of material to achieve perfection, but never heard back. Maybe thats why they want another $100.00, but I wouldn't bet on it.
What I used to make up the extra length was a peice of "universal fit" window channel run I had initialy purchased because it was cheaper. I should have bought the better ones first. I could have easily found something to make up the extra section needed. Oddball strips of old weatherstrip, peice of carpet, old seatbelt material... I dont know.
The job itself was easy enough. Iremoved the inner door panel, outer window sweep and removed the window stop at the bottom of the door. I picked out the old cracked sections, vacuumed out the 40 years worth of crap in the door. I opened up the drain holes at the bottom of the door with a step drill so they drain freely, slathered por-15 around as best as i could. The window channel runs slid into place easily enough with mild soapy water in a spray bottle. I worked the back section into the door by rolling the window up very carefully a few inches, then rolling the window down while simultaneously feeding the rubber strip down with it. I didnt use any adhesive and dont feel I am going to need to. Be very careful while moving the window up or down so you dont chip the glass, and use extreme caution if you decide to close the door-dont slam it. Any time i had to go get something or walk away, I shoved rags and cardboard between the door and glass to prevent potential disaster.
Next was the outer window sweeps. I found these on ebay, but unfortunately I cannot retreive the details or seller information, other than that they cost me $139.00. They incorporate the felt anti rattle/guide strip. The contour is perfect and the screw holes lined up perfectly, except for the front two. Im not sure where they were made, but they are well made. Remember to carefully roll the window up to clean the gunk at the bottom of the glass. Mine was filthy with no way to clean it with the outer sweep still attached -drove me nuts.
The screw holes in the door were a bit blown out and I couldn't find stainless screws that fit to my liking. So i drilled out the holes in the door slightly and used aluminum pop rivets after I por-15 the fresh metal. I also used por15 on the edges of the chrome and where the felt is mounted because i noticed a slight tinge of rust after install.
Check everything out, Roll the glass up half way, install the lower window stop, vacuum any crap that fell in the door, lube the mechanism, hang the door panel and put it back together. No more wind noise, rattling glass, or gunk line below the outer window sweep. Window goes up and down like new.
I hope this was helpful.
