Vortec Head 350 Project Build

Over the next few months I hope to have these vortec heads installed, since winter is coming up I may just do a little here and there to get it ready for next summer. Any way, Im bolting on EngineQuest CH350C Vortec heads, I made a topic on these heads HERE. And you can read there why I chose these over original GM L31- 906 & 062 castings.

Im going to make a parts list below, this build is similar to the Gm 350 Crate Engine Build IV & V from Super Chevy
Build 4:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/46364-gm-350-crate-engine-build-iv/
Build 5:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/46370-gm-350-crate-engine-build-v/

Ive got the same block, the GM Goodwrench 350 so this is why this is my template so to speak since they used the same block, but they used the GM L31 vortecs and Im using the EQ's so I might make more power???

Anyway, here are the parts Im using in my build.

CAMSHAFT:
Hyd Flat Tappet from Summit #SUM-1065 (I ordered the kit with lifters part number #SUM-K00052)
Specs: .458 intake and exhaust, 218 duration @.050, 284 advertised duration, 110LSA. Im using 1.6 rockers so my lift will be at .490 (Ive already got this cam installed with the old heads and springs to break it in and it has a great choppy idle and great power even with the low compression heads! so i cant wait for these vortecs!) (I use Joe Gibbs BR30 Break in oil, to me its the best and ive broken in two cams with this oil and no probs)



DOUBLE ROLLER TIMING CHAIN SET:
I used Comp cams double roller timing chain set #2100, I had to grind a little bit of material off the block above the cam, since the double roller is bigger.



INTAKE MANIFOLD:
Edelbrock Performer RPM Vortec #7116



ROCKER ARMS:
Comp High Energy Aluminum 1.6 Full Roller #17002-16



HEAD BOLTS:
ARP #134-3601



INTAKE BOLTS:
ARP #134-2002



HEAD GASKETS:
Fel Pro #1094 .015" rubber coated steel shim



INTAKE AND VALVE COVER GASKETS:
Fel Pro #MS98000T & VS50293R

Now on this you have to buy both of these since the valve cover gasket only has one gasket.
The fel pro MS98000T is the updated gasket, the old fel pro and old GM gaskets leaked, but are still sold, you need to make sure you get MS98000T, it has a metal skeleton and metal inserts to prevent over torquing, which was usually the cause of the old plastic ones to crack and leak. The MS98000T also includes one valve cover gasket and a few other gaskets which you wont use, but thats why you need VS50293R thats the other valve cover gasket, and those are the blue PermaDry ones.







Over the next few months ill be updating this and adding new pics, so stay tuned!

Nice looks like you will have some fun this fall\winter! I was thinking of the Vortec heads as strangely enough

the Crate I picked up has 72' 350 250hp heads not sure why unless they were worked in some way but when

I pull them eventually I will know for right now I will leave well enough alone till next year.

Awesome! Brings back memories of my last engine build. Looking forward to seeing this come together!

Yes thank you, I can't wait to see how yours comes together!


Are those the steel core valve cover gaskets? I bought those as they reminded me of

the GM 4t65e(2005 Impala) gaskets that are steel core and after changing the fluid about 6 times

over 175k they never ever leaked a drop!

Myloth wrote:Are those the steel core valve cover gaskets?

Nope, those are floppy rubber ones, but feel almost like silicone, i kinda wish they were more solid or had a steel core to keep their shape better, but we'll see how it goes. The vortec heads dont have that lip around the corners like old sbc heads do, so ill have to line it up perfect and hope to not bump them putting the cover on, but as long as it dont leak, im good! But the centerbolt covers were better at sealing than the old style perimeter bolt covers.

Got the new fabricated aluminum valve covers, dont look half bad. Slowly working on this project but its coming along nicely

Those valve covers look pretty amazing!!

Well got all the hardware for the heads yesterday, and took a few pics to show you what I got. I ordered all my parts from Alex's Parts, ive heard good things about them so i gave it a try, and from the looks of everything, it looks like good quality stuff, I believe most of their suppliers are Elgin Industries and Qualcast amongst others.
I ordered a set of stainless valves, standard 1.94 int, 1.50 exh with the standard .250" tips since im not using self aligning rockers.
A set of viton valve seals, locks, retainers, shims, and perhaps the most important of all, the valve springs.
These are the hi perf hyd flat tappet springs with 110lbs seat pressure when installed @ 1.780" and 310lbs open pressure at a max of .550 lift, however im only running a .490 lift so it will be a bit lower, but much higher than stock springs. I hope to increase my redline to 6000rpm with these springs.

Nice all those parts look like the makings of a great motor.

When you send your block out to machine shop what do you have done and how much does it cost you?





I am going to take my Mexican block and have it checked, hot tanked(maybe some places do baking or shot I

believe isn't hot tanking bad for the environment or something?) , decked and bored .030 anything else I

should get done trying to keep costs reasonable. I plan to buy the heads and assemble the motor myself I have

done it before and a friends brother runs race cars that he builds himself can offer advice on the assembly and

there is always you tube lol. Oh how about using a torque plate or not I know it's not a huge extra but is it worth

it?

Sorry I forgot the questions that keeps the thread integrity lol. Have you seen these?

http://www.theengineshop.com/products/cylinder-heads/bmp-small-block-chevy-aluminum-heads/bmp-sbc-23-vortec-style-aluminum-heads.html

They seem reasonably priced for what they are no?

As far as torque plates, it just depends what shop you take it to. Some machinists swear by them while others wont bother with them. I was more under the impression that torque plates were for high dollar high power precision builds, that doesnt mean you cant and shouldnt have them use them. Im not too knowledgable when it comes to block machine work, but i think id have mine done with torque plates. Machine work is usually pretty reasonable, but have the block zero decked and use flat tops, that way youll have a good quench. see what the machinist thinks about boring the cylinders he may recommend more like 40 or 60 over.

I know the actual cost of using torque plates is under 100 extra probably lot less than that. Some people

do recommend them others don't,as you say maybe it's better to do it anyway. Yes I was thinking the same thing

flat piston and having it decked. My plan is also to us Nitrous for track fun otherwise it will be built as a driver

while shooting for 400hp without the juice. My plans also include buying forged rods, now another item that's

debated is the strength of the cast iron crankshaft. I have heard people say they run 9s on the oem crank and

others swear over 500hp it will twist or crack. My experience is having built a a 350 and it was 400hp or

close to it as I drove the 78' Camaro it was in one time at 150+mph(It had highway gears) easily and it was

stock rods,crankshaft and Hyperteuratic pistons(Also had a Crane Cam and Holley 650 ddbl Pumper I actually

tried a 750 double pumper but it was tad too much for it.) and it was still going strong 8k later . However with

a nitrous shot of 200hp I'd be close to going over 600hp and If i went with 300hp shot ................

Thats what im aiming for in this build, 375-400hp for the street, but no nos, the motor couldnt handle that. Im just bolting on a top end kit, the bottom end is all stock, ill see how much abuse it can handle. Its a new crate motor with 16k on so thats why im not rebuilding it.

UPDATE:
Ive switched out the rocker arms for this build, instead of the comp 1.6 aluminum, im using the comp ultra pro magnum 1.52 chromoly steel full rollers. Since the change in ratios, my max lift will be .465 vs a .490 with the 1.6 ratio.

Is the reason for durability  as well as seeking less valve lift? (why less?)I have seen a lot more SS rockers out

there recently rather than aluminum I assume for the strength and durability?

Strength and durability, after reading alot about aluminum rockers, and my machinist telling me to go to a 1.5, thats why i decided to change. I figure im not going to let and extra $150 more for the rockers be the cause of future failure, i want a solid yet silky smooth valve train.

Heads will be going on tomorrow, i mocked them up because i couldnt wait to see what it looks like. Tomorrow is going to be a busy day!

NICE! Love the look of that motor with those Valve covers. Yeah after some reading I will go with what

you did 1.5 Rockers ideally stainless I don't think more is needed.


Anyway post some more pics and maybe a video or two please!

Figure id update this post, well i got it all back together and running. It ran good for about an hour then an exhaust valve stuck, and the piston slapped it. luckily it was just off idle and hardly nicked the piston. Welp long story short, i dropped the heads off at a cyl head shop an hour away since theres nothing around where i live about two weeks ago, got to have the valve guide repaired, and the seat repaired, im also having him install new Manley valves since part of me believes the cheap valves i used were the cause of it. But the more i dig deeper into this the more i never realized and the more im learning. I never realized rocker arm geometry was so extensive, precise, important, and much overlooked! The big cam companies tell you when your using roller rockers to have the roller sweep the tip of the valve, when you want the narrowest sweep you can get. It also doesnt matter if the mark is not in the center on the tip. So i consulted with some seasoned pros on some other forums and found that Straub Technologies has the perfect method of finding correct rocker arm geometry which is based on the mid lift system, and thus finding the correct pushrod length. The reason im saying all this is the valve train is much more complicated than what is usually perceived or shown. And its more complicated than it really should be, unless your using the stock stamped steel (walking shoe) rocker arms, those are much more forgiving. Roller rockers are a whole new road, one i wish i never traveled. I found the correct geometry in my application, but my valve still stuck, and at first i thought it was an overly positive valve stem seal, but i want to believe its the cheap valves which is why im replacing them, ive also found that stainless steel and iron valve guides dont get along at all and thats why the stems have to be chromed ( which i dont think mine were) or they have to be used in bronze guides in an aluminum head. You cant use bronze liners in iron heads. Anyway im going to make a dedicated thread to pushrod length and rocker arm geometry from my experience and mistakes and from the pros. In my application a 8.000" pushrod was perfect which is +.200 longer than stock length. So once i get the heads back itll be time for round two.

That's terrible at least now you know. I never had any issues with stamped steel myself.

I inherited a aluminum rockered 355 in TA I bought but never got far with that(fire long story).

I always was aware that iron doesn't get along with anything except maybe steel. But still

metallurgy gets the better of us all at times it seems. (I still have to tap that block from rusted pump bolt)

I hope this works out though for you please keep us in the loop. It's surprising though with studs to

I could see with shaft mounted rockers as the former is more forgiving.

Whoa, that's a bent valve. Ouch!! I opted for roller tipped factory style rockers on the 327 and they turned out to be a good decision. I looked into some similar ones as you posted, but my buddy advised against it back when I was building it. His reasoning was push rod length and valve lash being more complicated and the fact that I really didn't need them as they would be overkill for my setup.

Well thought id update this post again, its now August 2015. Ive got the cyl heads fixed in april and have put about 1,000 miles on it since then and its running strong! That was another $1000 to get them fixed, i had bronze liners put in along with Manley valves and a valve job, had to replace the one valve seat too from the bent valve. So far this "budget" build has turned out a little more expensive than planned but i guess the results are worth it. I think i hit close to 4k on everything. Heres a vid of the idle with cutouts open.
I cant post pics since im posting this from my phone but this vid will have to do.

Yes!  That sounds so good!  Glad you got it back together!